Tuesday was one of those relaxed, pleasant days that spawns fond smiles. We attempted to metro south, but the packed cars reminded us of our picked pocket, so reversed course, surfaced and took an Uber to the Museo Frida Kahlo. Once home to Frida, Diego Rivera and Stalin-exiled Leo Trotsky, the bright azure home now houses a collection of Kahlo’s paintings, crafts, costumes histories. She must have been a strong woman, channeling physical and emotional pain and injustice into imaginative, surrealistic works.
Walking south from the Kahlo museum through the bucolic Coyoacan neighborhood, we explored the colorful local market and found lunch para llevar… which we dutifully enjoyed in the shady, quiet Jardin Plaza Hidalgo. Passing through yet another magnificent colonial church – the 420-year-old Parroquia San Juan Bautista – we enjoyed the adjacent Jardin Centenario and its fountained, frolicking coyotes before finding an Uber to the renowned Museo Nacional de Anthropologia.
Its reputation is merited. Focused on the rich but underappreciated Mesoamerican anthropology, it’s wonderfully displayed and housed in a U-shaped building around a large courtyard, with exhibits arranged linearly beginning with the migration across the Bering Straight through the great Teotohuican, Olmec, Toltec, Mayan and Aztec civilizations. The lower floor focuses on the ancient societies and
display magnificent relics; the upper floor overlooks these and tells the story of how these civilizations survive today. I needed more time to appreciate the exhibits; fortunately they had a VR exhibit for Max & Ben. After touring the museum we snacked outside while watching some
indigenous Totonac men perform the voladores rite – dangling upside-down and spinning from a ~100’ pole… twisted.
That night Sue and I abandoned the boys and set off for date night in the upscale Roma neighborhood, where we enjoyed a chic dinner at Huset, a rustic hipster spot that might be found in Napa. After some obligatory foodie fotos and a fine meal we strolled the quiet streets past a film shoot, gathered some coffee (Mexican coffee and chocolate are outstanding by the way) and Ubered home.